{"version":1,"type":"rich","provider_name":"Libsyn","provider_url":"https:\/\/www.libsyn.com","height":90,"width":600,"title":"#122 - Train More Effectively: The Systems Approach That Will Transform Your Climbing","description":"This episode is the first in a two-part deep dive into designing a comprehensive, long-term systems approach to training. Coach Eric H\u00f6rst unpacks\u2014in rich detail\u2014how systems actually function, and he highlights how transformative climbers throughout history \u201cshake up the box\u201d with innovative, highly effective methods to achieve big goals and push the boundaries of our sport. Eric blends a concise climbing history lesson with an engineer-like breakdown of how intelligent systems operate. Part 2 of this series will deliver the actionable strategies you can use to build a personalized, high-performance training system for this winter\u2026and for many seasons to come. This is an entertaining and thought-provoking episode\u2014so lean in, listen closely, and get ready to feel inspired, challenged, and equipped to level-up your modus operandi at the crag, in the gym, at home, and in everything you do! RUNDOWN 0:15 \u2013 Eric's welcome 1:45 - Are you ready for "training season?" 3:15 - The powerful force of the compounding effect of year-over-year gains in strength and climbing ability!  \ud83c\udfa7 Podcast Sponsors: La Sportiva | DMM | Friction Labs | PhysiVantage -- Amplify your training and climb your best with PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers. Save 15% off full-price nutrition at PhysiVantage.com with checkout code: PODCAST15 6:00 \u2013 Learning to climb is simple; learning how to train effectively is complex! 10:50 \u2013 Employing a \u201csystems\u201d approach to your training and goal pursuit. 13:10 \u2013 The value of waking each morning with a mission. 18:55 \u2013 Eric shares some climbing history\u2026and names 5 legendary, transformative climbers that influenced him and helped inspire this systems approach to training\/climbing. 20:30 - #1 Warren Harding\u2026applied a mission approach to big wall climbing\u2026and took commitment and suffering to a new level. 22:35 - #2 John Gill \u2013 The father of modern bouldering and training for climbing. Read his biography, Masters of Rock (by Pat Ament). Gill was climbing V9 (in hiking boots) in 1959! 24:30 - #3 Wolfgang Gullich \u2013 Applied a systems approach to training and hard climbing\u2026and opened up the world\u2019s first 5.14a, 5.14b, and 5.14d. Wolfgang helped invent the campus board, a climbing-specific form of plyometric training. 26:20 - #4 Todd Skinner \u2013 A pioneer of big wall free climbing, hard bouldering, and limit sport climbing, Todd employed a mission approach to climbing on a massive \u201call-in\u201d and multi-year scale. 27:45 - #5 Lynn Hill \u2013 First female 5.14 ascent, World Cup Champion, and Free Ascent of The Nose of El Cap (1994). Lynn, like the other four legendary climbers, employed a systems approach to her climbing life. 30:00 \u2013 Two more important influences: my parents, Bob and Ethel Horst. My father, an engineer and inventor, helped shape my innate sense of needing to employ a systems approach to training\/climbing. 31:05 \u2013 Side note about Jim Collins, a leading climber in the early1980s -- later a best-selling author and business consultant, Jim described my mega-goal concept as a "BHAG". Big Audacious Hairy Goal!   32:25\u2013 Conceptual model of a \u201cSystem\u201d. 32:40 - Five elements of an open system: 1. Input, 2. Output, 3, Structure, 4. Transport, 5. Conversion. 35:30 \u2013 Making a system into an \u201cIntelligent System\u201d with four additional elements: 6. Goal, 7. Sensor, 8. Controller, 9. Disturbance. 41:55 \u2013 Applying an Intelligent System approach to your training and goal pursuit. If you\u2019re an advanced or elite climber, then employing a highly personalized system approach to training is essential for pursuing your genetic potential\u2026and mega goals! 45:00 - Wrap up of Part 1 and a teaser for Part 2 coming in T4C Podcast #123! Follow Eric on Facebook and on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric\u2019s YouTube channel. \ud83c\udfa7 Support Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com PhysiVantage is available in Europe from the EPIC-TV Shop and in Mexico from PhysiVantage.mx SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy ","author_name":"Eric H\u00f6rst's Training For Climbing Podcast","author_url":"http:\/\/www.trainingforclimbing.com","html":"